Author Topic: Shell plate removal  (Read 9160 times)

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saltydog

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Shell plate removal
« on: January 07, 2011, 10:46:31 pm »
I surrender.  I am down to the shell plate but a bit leary of simply prying it up. I suspect that it may be like the side plate
removal of a revolver in that a gentle tap or two works wonders.

So what is the secret of removing the shell plate w/o warping the dang thing? Push down the ball detent, cross my eyes?

This Star has sat unused for a couple or three decades and I imagine I need to get the cobwebs out of it.

Thanks,

slty

rbwillnj

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Re: Shell plate removal
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2011, 01:05:22 am »
Does the Shell Plate turn?  If so, there is nothing holding it in place except the close tolerance fit with the column.   Assuming it turns, just make sure you are pulling it straight up EVENLY (get your fingers under both sides and rock it slightly as you pull it up).   

If the Shell Plate does not turn, then you may have some hardened lubricant or rust holding it.   If it doesn't turn, soak it with Krol or WD 40 until you can get it to turn freely before trying to lift it off.
Star Machine Works
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saltydog

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Re: Shell plate removal
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2011, 11:11:39 am »
Thanks,

It rotates, but does so with difficulty.  

Kroil applied.   Will wait 'till Sunday and see what happens.

Is there any reason for me to get into the rocker arm, ball/spring, etc. underneath the shell plate?

Anything else that I might need to know before I break/damage an irreplacable part?  I have ten arthritic thumbs, poor vision, and a 'larger hammer' attitude.

Thanks again,

salty

quick edit:  Since this thing is going to be mostly disassembled, where are the lube points?

tnx,

sd.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2011, 11:31:35 am by saltydog »

fc60

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Re: Shell plate removal
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2011, 12:31:22 pm »
Greetings Salty,

If the machine is as dirty as it sounds, removing parts and cleaning would be a benefit.
  • #52 Steel Ball is accessed via the #54 Steel Ball Plug from underneath. This is a common place for spilled powder to accumulate.
  • #45 Primer Punch Rocker Arm is not symmetrical, pay close attention to the shape of the ends when you remove it. Notice the #47 Rocker Arm Screw has a small prick punch mark on the #12 Steel Floor Base next to the screwdriver slot. This is to keep the screw from backing out during use. Be sure to realign it as original and reform the stake with a center punch. Be sure to grease the #47 screw upon reassembly.
  • Remove the #79U Shell Base Locating Straps by unscrewing the Filister Head screws. Crud also tends to accumulate under these three parts, as well.

Vice Grips and Channel Lock pliers are tools that should be locked away from the Star Machine. Take the time to locate good quality screwdrivers and combination wrenches. It sounds like you are on your way to restoring your machine to like new quality. You will certainly enjoy loading with it and I wish you well.

Cheers,

Dave Wilson

saltydog

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Re: Shell plate removal
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2011, 01:46:50 pm »
I have to get this 45ACP to start playing nice before I can begin to move on the 45 Colt. 

I have a Star sizing tool that is in the same state of neglect. A brass mold from Mihec is on order.

Those 45 Colt $ signs are starting to add up.

I am moving, although at inch-worm speed, and I do appreciate the comments and assistance.

Thanks,

salty

ARTINCT

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Re: Shell plate removal
« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2011, 04:43:27 pm »
One last thought here....

You must move the shell plate such so that the tip of the primer slide angle lever (Part #48) is positioned
over a case hole in the shell plate.  If NOT, the primer slide angle lever's TIP may stop you from lifting
the shell plate up.

I use two tiny flat screwdrivers, one on each side of the shell plate to get under and lift the shell plate
once I have positioned it correctly.

I hope this helps you?
Art In Connecticut

saltydog

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Re: Shell plate removal
« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2011, 07:33:49 pm »
Thanks all.

salty