Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - rbwillnj

706
Star Reloaders / Re: The "Un-Numbered Part" - Brass Primer Base?
« on: January 22, 2011, 06:03:28 pm »
If the number on the cam is stamped high (top corner) than the number stamped in the recess of the head should be stamped at the top of the recess.  If the number is stamped lower on the cam, the matching number should be stamped at the bottom of the recess.  The fonts of the numbers should match also.  I have seen large and small font number stamped on the parts.

I assume that they adjusted the cams on the tool heads, stamped the parts, then sent the cams off to get heat treated.  The numbers helped them identify the which cam went with which head for final assembly.   The more combinations they had to choose from, the more parts they could do at one time without mixing them up.

707
Star Reloaders / Re: CCI Large Pistol Primers getting sideways
« on: January 22, 2011, 04:45:04 pm »
I did have one batch of primers (Winchester SP) where the anvil was set too high.   No problem with them dropping through the pickup tubes, or the primer magazine, but as the primer slide moved them out, they would get hung up in primer magazine socket.  Sometimes it would tear the anvil off, sometimes it would deform the primer, but I would always have to dismantle the primer system and remove the shell plate to clean up the problem.   As soon as I switched over to another batch of primers, the problem went away.

If primers are getting hung up in the primer magzine, clean it up as described above, and check for damage.  Also, check the bottom of the primer magazine for burrs around the hole.  Sometimes they get dropped and it peens over a little bit of brass.  Use a tapered reamer or a round file to make sure there isn't any brass getting in the way of primer movement.

As mentioned above, if you need a new magazine, I have them.

708
Star Reloaders / Re: Powder Measure Tube
« on: January 21, 2011, 08:53:34 am »
Doc,   I'll send you a PM with the information you requested.

Any Plastic will eventually darken if exposed to powder for too long of a period, but I have been pleased with how well the polycarbonate holds up.

709
Star Reloaders / Re: INSTALLING PLASTIC TUBE
« on: January 20, 2011, 04:07:24 pm »
Do they have the proper thread to screw into the powder slide housing.   If they do, they might be Phelps parts.   The Phelps powder magazine hardware has a smaller OD than the Star hardware.  It was designed to be fitted into a glass tube with a piece of bicycle innertube acting as a gasket between the hardware in the glass.   I think that the polycarbonate tube that I use can be machined to fit the Phelps hardware.

Does your hardware look like that in the picture below.  

710
Loading Data & Reloading Procedures / Re: 44 Short
« on: January 20, 2011, 07:37:59 am »
45 LC is 45 Long Colt.  Sorry for the abbreviation

711
Star Reloaders / Re: INSTALLING PLASTIC TUBE
« on: January 20, 2011, 07:36:19 am »
Alan,

When I install new tubes, I use polycarbonate tube from McMaster Carr, but I use the 1-1/2 OD : 1-1/4 ID tube.  I have to machine the ID of both ends of the tube fit the hardware.  Also, I find the thicker tube holds up better over time.  I can do the work for you if you don't have the equipment to do the work.

712
Loading Data & Reloading Procedures / Re: 44 Short
« on: January 20, 2011, 01:18:31 am »
Ever hear of 45 Cowboy?  It's a 45 ACP length case with a 45 LC rim.  Some guy had a whole bunch of cases made for Cowboy Action shooting.  I bought a few hundred but never used them.

713
Star Reloaders / Re: CCI Large Pistol Primers getting sideways
« on: January 20, 2011, 12:38:10 am »
Jerry,

In my experience, there isn't enough room in a Star primer magazine or pickup tube for primers to turn sideways, or rotate.  You should not be able to insert a primer sideways into your primer magazine.   Are you using an original Star primer magazine and pickup tubes, or possibly another brand.   I have seen some pickup tubes (Dillon I think) that are so oversized that if you set them down on their sides, the primers would rotate and flip.   Do you think that might be what's happening in your case?

714
Star Reloaders / Re: TAPER CRIMP DIE
« on: January 19, 2011, 12:34:40 pm »
Everybody offers dies for doing a taper crimp in a separate station.....which is where it should be done.    Some makers offer seating dies with taper crimps, some with roll crimps.  Older Hornady seating dies for autoloading cartridges used to incorporated a roll crimp, newer Hornady seating dies incorporate a taper crimp.  Lee offers seating dies with what they call a modified roll crimp which they say you can adjust to just do a taper crimp.

My opinion, (and most reloading manuals would agree) is that a taper crimp should always be done separately from bullet seating.   Roll crimping can be done in the seating step, but only if the bullet has a crimp groove, or you are crimping over the shoulder such as with a 38 wadcutter.

715
Star Reloaders / Re: SHELL PLATES
« on: January 19, 2011, 12:20:28 pm »
I was hoping someone else would weigh in on this one, but since no one has, I will add my two cents.

45 Long Colt will fit in a 45 Auto Rim shell plate, so I guess you can use it, but I think you would be far better off with a desiccated 45 Long Colt Shell Plate.

The rim of a 45 Auto Rim case is much thicker than the rim of a 45 Long Colt case, and the 45 Auto Rim shell plate allows for the extra thickness of the rim.   If you use a 45 Auto Rim Shell Plate for 45 Long Colt, when the case is bottomed out on the steel base, the shell plate actually contacts the wall of the case, not the recess above the rim.   As you preform the various operations on the Star, the case will continually move up and down in the shell plate.   Is that bad??  I don't know, but certainly not optimum.

716
Star Reloaders / Re: Rocker Arm Screw - Removal - Question
« on: January 18, 2011, 04:01:18 pm »
I have refurbished/rebuilt a fair number of Star and Phelps reloaders, and the part I most often replace is the rocker arm screw.   The rocker arm screw on many machines has a tendency to back out with use.  It only has about 1/4" of thread, and if it backs out enough, the rocker rides on the thread, and can bend the end of the screw.   When that happens, you can't get it back in, and you will have a heck of a time getting it out.   If you see your rocker arm screw protruding even a little from the steel base, screw it back in.   I you do that, it will last forever, they don't wear out.   Very few Stars have died of old age, it's usually neglect that does them in.

When you look at those Star listings on eBay, take note of the rocker arm screw.  If it's sticking out, there is a good chance it will have to be replaced.

717
Star Reloaders / Re: TAPER CRIMP DIE
« on: January 18, 2011, 10:22:19 am »
Absolutely ...YES

718
Star Reloaders / Re: My first Star
« on: January 18, 2011, 10:21:28 am »
Thanks for the kind words Geoff, it looks like it has found a nice new home.  Just keep feeding it brass and it will make you happy for a long time.

719
Star Reloaders / Re: The "Un-Numbered Part" - Brass Primer Base?
« on: January 18, 2011, 02:05:38 am »
Some Phelps are numbered, some are not.   I have one that I'm cleaning up now that is numbered, but the numbers don't match.

720
Star Reloaders / Re: The "Un-Numbered Part" - Brass Primer Base?
« on: January 17, 2011, 04:17:53 pm »
The part your are referring to was fitted at the factory, and matching numbers were stamped on it, and on the steel base (look below the bronze part).   That part is not interchangeable from one reloader to another.

If you take a look, you will also see that #49U, the Angle lever cam has a number stamped in it, and there is a matching number stamped in the round recess in the tool head.  Not only do the numbers match, but there is a system to the position where the number is stamped (high or low).