A Note From Pete Brunelli: This is a page that was put together by a Bullseye-L member, Chuck Pickle. I’m pretty sure about the name, but I could have lost it down the old memory hole. He did a really nice job documenting the innards of the IZH35M, and I have done a little sprucing up to help with readability, plus I imported it into a web page design program to help with any maintenance on me end. Also notice that I put all of his photos into a separate gallery page instead of the click-through thumbnail linking on the original. Enjoy! PB March 2009


Firstly, thanks to Pete Brunelli for agreeing to host this page.

I'd been reading on the bullseye list about the IZH-35M. The price and reviews made them a real attractive contender for my next .22. The only problem is, they are not popular enough that I know someone that could hand me theirs to take a look at. The only shots I could find are the stock photo's at EAA and on gunbroker.com. I decided to get one, and have taken a few shots of it here for you guys. Hopefully these shots will interest some of you. These pictures are thumbnailed, by the way, you can click them for better shots.


You've read about the hammer, it swings down from above. Well, here's a shot of that. Shot on the left is cocked, and I suppose that red dot is what folks are calling the "cocking indicator". One (I believe) undocumented advantage to this, you can look right in here and see the second sear (the IZH has a two sear setup). You can point your aerosol cleaner of choice right in here and blast out a large portion of the guts.

The trigger, you've read, has 5 adjustments. Here's 4 of them, you can see the pretravel and overtravel screws quite clearly here. The trigger itself is moveable fore and aft. The 3rd picture shows the sear engagement screw (hidden by left grip panel when assembled).


The 5th I forget to get a shot of. It's the unremarkable trigger weight adjustment screw, easily accessible from the top when the scope rail is not installed. Some shooters are writing that they are drilling through their scope rail to make it more accessible. I don't see myself changing mine very often. I like it the way it's set. I think I'll leave it alone.

How adjustable is the palm shelf?
Well... from here:


to about... here.


Disassembly: first remove the grips. On the underbelly of the muzzle, you'll find this spring loaded button. Push it.. the lower shroud slides forward and removes.


The aft end of the lower shroud just kinda "tucks in" back there above the front of the trigger guard.


You can see where the upper shroud has short rails cut for the lower shroud to mate to here on the right. Also note those two holes. Those are for the 3rd party barrel weight. Those shouldn't show up on yours. Also note the hex head screw in the upper shroud. Those are 3rd party also. The stock screws are famously soft, and vibrate loose with great regularity. I was lucky enough to get my IZH secondhand. The barrel weight hole, the aftermarket trigger shoe you see, and the hex screws are the additions of the previous owner. From what I read, they are a near necessity. Later, after I'm done here, I'll go get the URL for the site that sells these accessories and add it here.


Once the lower shroud is removed (as seen above, to the extreme right), you can make short work of the three screws that hold on the upper shroud. You may have to hold the slide to the rear to accomplish this. It's not a painful maneuver at all, though. Note the sights are still on the frame. The upper shroud does not effect the zero at all. The scope rail, however, is another matter. Another reason to look into those replacement screws. You'd be real upset to see your red dot down there on your left foot halfway through a match. Next, the slide. Pull it back about ¼". Aft end up, nose end down, let it slide, along with the spring and guide rod, off the front past the muzzle block. Easier to explain with a picture... thus.. here's some pictures.


One screw gets you to the second picture from the first. The second picture is a very large one should you choose to zoom in. You can just see sear 2 engaged with the hammer. I've flipped the safety up to fire, you can see the sear 1/sear 2 engagement here also. This engagement is also easily viewed (and lubricated) when the gun is fully assembled. I don't see why anyone would need to strip further than this on a regular basis. A can of whatever should be able to get at any crud you need to blast out of here.


My writing has made it seem are worst than it actually is. We're talking maybe a minute and a half of real time to get the gun down to this point.

A shot of the manual safety, and of the access hole to sear 1/sear 2 engagement.


Easily accessible with the grip on, too.

Here's a couple unremarkable shots of the right side with the grip removed.


You can see the grip safety. Some have written of drilling, tapping, and securing this down. Some complain. I ignore it and it goes away.

Here's a couple shots of the slide.


You can clearly see the firing pin profile from this head on shot. The "tooth" along a 6 o'clock line does not contact the chamber mouth. It is the large surface area, the upper half, that makes contact. This is the attribute that allows the IZH to be dry fired. In these shots, also, you can see the extractor. Maybe I'm easily impressed, but it seems to me that that's an awfully beefy extractor. I don't think I've ever seen one like it on a .22 before. Also, in these pictures more than any of the others, you can see the rough tooling marks on the insides. Like you've read a million times already, the roughness is aesthetic. Function is not affected.

That's about it, unless someone has something else they're curious about and want to see a specific angle or part I've not included. I'll answer any questions the best I can if you email me. A much more reliable and trustworthy source of information... the Bullseye Pistol Internet Forum. Full of guys that know a LOT more than me.

Thanks again for the webspace, Pete

Chuck, Jacksonville FL